ponedeljek, 29. junij 2015

Rat King Video

Short video of Uroš Brecelj making second ascent and still only repeat of my line ''Rat King'' up in Hubelj creek!
Enjoy and get Syked! Any takers?

petek, 26. junij 2015

Hydroponics

Sorry for the lack of updates but I've been out of climbing game for two weeks now. Cut my thumb finger pretty bad, got 5 stitches and now I'm waiting to heal properly before I start again. 
Anyway, a while ago new bolder was been climbed in Hubelj and kinda forget to post about. Kete Janez build nice landing deck one day and started trying but couldn't do first move. Couple of days later me and Katja Vidmar tried it and we figured out slightly left exit. Katja then did first ascent and I followed shortly. 

Hydroponics 7A?
sit start from nasty lil pocket for right hand and little pinch for the left, then big move to the left and out. You can find this boulder in upper part of Hubelj area, 30 meters above River Rat boulder.

ponedeljek, 15. junij 2015

On the Hunt

While most of you still going on same old places, here at Ajdbloc we are looking into future! 
Went to explore some new stuff around Bohinj yesterday, together with Luka Frelih and Andrej Trobec aka Trinity. Check some phone photos bellow, there is more to come!
 Luka Frelih on F.A. of Desni Tajkun 6a/b
 Zelenih 45 6C/C+, sikk green wall with some perfect incuts
 limestone patterns
 Trinity checking sikk river polish shapes
Big wall in the forest! Lots of stuff lurking out in the woodz!

ponedeljek, 08. junij 2015

Suiseki

The hottest boulder at the moment! 
Suiseki 7A/7C in Idrijska Bela, a sit start to an old Blaž Mur problem. Very cool compression thing, start trying this one last weekend, also Luka Frelih was working this one, then Kete Janez came around and dispatched it nonchalantly in couple of tries. It's great little summer spot, just next to a river on a beach. Just follow signs for Idrijska Bela and park next to little bridge, same parking lot as Strug climbing area.
 
 
 
 

četrtek, 28. maj 2015

Rat King

Couple of years back when Hubelj was for one summer epicentre of bouldering in Vipava valley, we scooped nice high rounded arête right of River Rat. Later Janez Kete prepared landing zone, but we never cleaned the whole thing. So yesterday I finally went up there with rope, brushed it and new boulder was born. 
Rat King 7B-ish? F.A. 27.05.2015
Sit start, then follow up rounded arête feature up to the crux getting big sloppy ledge, into nice spicy high ball finish for the end.
Rat King, first ascent
 
 
 Crux move, thanks for the spot Kete!

ponedeljek, 25. maj 2015

Czech sandstone

Today we are featuring guest gallery from our Line Hunters friends. Impressions from Labske Udoli!
 
 
 
 

četrtek, 21. maj 2015

Five Ten Hiangle

Couple of months ago I got my first pair of 5.10 Hiangles. Since then I probably wear them 99% of the time. Tried them on various angles (overhangs, slabs, roofs...) and almost every type of rock. From rough sandstone of Utah and Nevada, smooth Fontainebleau stone, river polished limestone, Swiss granite and so on...that shoe excels everywhere!
They are well build and after climbing with them almost exclusively for more then half a year that first pair is still going strong. I wear street shoes size UK 9, also my Dragons and Teams are same size (UK 9). For Hiangles I went half size down, so UK 8.5. If you want to wear them really tight you can go down extra half size. They stretch a little, but not much.
Overall it's shoe that offers great support without compromising the sensitivity. If I had to choose just one shoe to go on a trip I would definitely pick this one. Pretty much all-rounder, one can easily go climbing with just one pair in the bag and still covers all terrains. Great heel, good for toe hooking and excellent for edging.
For the end I'll just quote a friend of mine who order a pair and after a week of climbing with them he announced  ''Hiangles are the best shoes I ever had!''
I couldn't agree more!
around the world with Hiangles!

ponedeljek, 11. maj 2015

Trnow Jungle Fresh

Went up in Trnow Land yesterday with Uroš Brecelj and Katja Vidmar. Previous summer I scooped this nice little sector and yesterday we went there with gear and start developing it. Drei Zinnen as we dubbed it has now six new boulders and potential for few more. Jungle time!
 Reloaded F.A. 6c-7b
 Sveže Stisnjen 6b/c, Katja Vidmar on quick second ascent
 Pol Pot 6c/7a F.A.
 Right Eliminator, Uroš Brecelj on F.A.
 Holidays in Cambodia 6c-X, F.A. 
perfect flat hold for start and couple of moves in overhang leads you up in dihedral and vertical wall for finish, 10 meters of climbing! 
 Lost in Translation 7a/b, Katja Vidmar on F.A.
developers gear! many thanks to 5.10 Slovenija and Moon Climbing!

sobota, 02. maj 2015

Oplotnica

Decided to escape shit weather at home and went to Oplotnica yesterday. Nice day wandering around the woodz and climbing on things that escaped on previous visits.
little tricky egg boulder
trying hard arête thing on Hiša boulder
Katja working Holy Cow 
nice crimpy wall
perfect compression boulder for warm up

četrtek, 30. april 2015

Link Time

Very cool blocs and important message in this video! This is true not only for the Creek but also for every other climbing and bouldering area out there. This are the topics which are important not if Era Vella is 8c or 9a or is someone model or athlete...