Thursday, May 28, 2015

Rat King

Couple of years back when Hubelj was for one summer epicentre of bouldering in Vipava valley, we scooped nice high rounded arête right of River Rat. Later Janez Kete prepared landing zone, but we never cleaned the whole thing. So yesterday I finally went up there with rope, brushed it and new boulder was born. 
Rat King 7B-ish? F.A. 27.05.2015
Sit start, then follow up rounded arête feature up to the crux getting big sloppy ledge, into nice spicy high ball finish for the end.
Rat King, first ascent
 
 
 Crux move, thanks for the spot Kete!

Monday, May 25, 2015

Czech sandstone

Today we are featuring guest gallery from our Line Hunters friends. Impressions from Labske Udoli!
 
 
 
 

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Five Ten Hiangle

Couple of months ago I got my first pair of 5.10 Hiangles. Since then I probably wear them 99% of the time. Tried them on various angles (overhangs, slabs, roofs...) and almost every type of rock. From rough sandstone of Utah and Nevada, smooth Fontainebleau stone, river polished limestone, Swiss granite and so on...that shoe excels everywhere!
They are well build and after climbing with them almost exclusively for more then half a year that first pair is still going strong. I wear street shoes size UK 9, also my Dragons and Teams are same size (UK 9). For Hiangles I went half size down, so UK 8.5. If you want to wear them really tight you can go down extra half size. They stretch a little, but not much.
Overall it's shoe that offers great support without compromising the sensitivity. If I had to choose just one shoe to go on a trip I would definitely pick this one. Pretty much all-rounder, one can easily go climbing with just one pair in the bag and still covers all terrains. Great heel, good for toe hooking and excellent for edging.
For the end I'll just quote a friend of mine who order a pair and after a week of climbing with them he announced  ''Hiangles are the best shoes I ever had!''
I couldn't agree more!
around the world with Hiangles!

Monday, May 11, 2015

Trnow Jungle Fresh

Went up in Trnow Land yesterday with Uroš Brecelj and Katja Vidmar. Previous summer I scooped this nice little sector and yesterday we went there with gear and start developing it. Drei Zinnen as we dubbed it has now six new boulders and potential for few more. Jungle time!
 Reloaded F.A. 6c-7b
 Sveže Stisnjen 6b/c, Katja Vidmar on quick second ascent
 Pol Pot 6c/7a F.A.
 Right Eliminator, Uroš Brecelj on F.A.
 Holidays in Cambodia 6c-X, F.A. 
perfect flat hold for start and couple of moves in overhang leads you up in dihedral and vertical wall for finish, 10 meters of climbing! 
 Lost in Translation 7a/b, Katja Vidmar on F.A.
developers gear! many thanks to 5.10 Slovenija and Moon Climbing!

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Oplotnica

Decided to escape shit weather at home and went to Oplotnica yesterday. Nice day wandering around the woodz and climbing on things that escaped on previous visits.
little tricky egg boulder
trying hard arête thing on Hiša boulder
Katja working Holy Cow 
nice crimpy wall
perfect compression boulder for warm up