Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Best of 2015

What a year!
Looking forward to 2016 already, but here are my best moments of 2015. 
Thank you all and happy new year!
 first ascent of ''Holidays in Cambodia'' 6C-x, Trnow Styler 
 first ascent of ''Turbulence Dreams'' 6C-x, Vipavska Bela
 new Zone called Area 420 
and especially first ascent of this block, ''Snow Beach'' 7A
Quick trip to Font, re-climbing some classics and some new blocs,
 Fontainebleau is always special and always nice
 first ascent of ''Yukon'' 6B-x, Trnow Styler
 many days out in the woodz with this little fella
thank you for company and spotting Mr. Truffe!
first ascent of ''Dreamin' Man'' 7B, Kovk
Trip to USA.
Utah is amazing and this thing here is probably the best boulder I climbed last year.
Black Angus V7, Big Bend Boulders
first ascent of ''Wolf Child'' V7/9, Indian Creek
Brownie! 
Amazing line on spider web textured granite. 
Very unique!
and last the biggest thing for me this year! 
Notorious B.I.G.!! 

Monday, December 28, 2015

Oplotnica

This is one of the best slabs I ever done everywhere. Just another testament of quality and variety which bouldering on Pohorje offers. Then we moved down to ''2 Poki'', great compression boulder on two parallel cracks. We did stand start but we couldn't stick the first move. One for the next visit. Amazing granite and some world class blocs all around this forest.
 Platofukič (Slabfucker) amazing slab with spicy last move
 2 poki (2 cracks), hard first move into compression top out
Pohorje Rulz TM

Thursday, December 24, 2015

Joe's Valley

Third and last video in Utah Bouldering Series.
Two Joe's Valley roadside classics and some shark fin surfin up the Great White.
...snuck an extra slice of cake...

Monday, December 21, 2015

Brownie

Tried this amazing boulder in Oplotnica last Sunday and really wanted to go back and finish it. So on Saturday we went up there again and after we got stuck in traffic jam for 2 hours and arrived there almost at the dark, I somehow pulled myself together and climbed it. 
Brownie, another stunning Rok Klančnik first ascent, climbs this spice line up some most amazing and unique spider web textured granite.
Brownie, Oplotnica
 Spider Web Granite
 warming up in ''Fonturistic'', sick lil Fontaesque compression

Wednesday, December 16, 2015

South West

Second video in the Utah Bouldering Series features amazing Black Angus arête from Big Bend Boulders near Moab and two Indian creek blocs. Enjoy!

Monday, December 14, 2015

Notorious B.I.G. saga

Roughly six years ago me, Boštjan Weingerl and Tomaž Balut find this enormous striking block on one of our new bloc hunts. Still remember that I almost got heart attack when we first see it. Soon then we climbed stand start and Boštjan briefly tried sit start. Then other blocs and areas around Vipava Valley come into sight and B.I.G. sit project was kind of forgotten. Three years ago I went up again and properly cleaned sit start and start working on it. It was hard. And good. One rarely find such amazing line on limestone boulder. Word was out and other players come and tried it. Boštjan was soon back and climbed it in two or three sessions named it Notorious B.I.G. 8A+. Well for me this was just the beginning of the epic saga. Three years of many solo missions hiking up the steep hill, battling with conditions, scraping snow, dealing with bad skin and injuries and working and refining my beta.
On Saturday when I was hiking up again with Mr. Truffe my trustful spotter dog, I was still feeling very jet-lagged and was thinking ''oh, I'm just gonna chalked the top out and worked out the moves again''. I didn't had any expectations. Then I start trying it and felt light and strong and BOOM suddenly I was face to face with the top out rail and for a second I thought ''I can climb this!!'' and my hand slipped and I was down. Devastating!! I never came so close...
I rested for 30 minutes, walked around and tried to stay calm. After half an hour rest I put camera with last remaining battery on stone, brushed holds, put on my left Team shoe and right HiAngle and climbed it. Notorious B.I.G. was done!! I was and still am so fuckin psyched! My longest battle with one boulder is over.
I would like to thank Katja Vidmar for keeping up with my dramas, Mr. Truffe for spot and all the people who over the years hiked up there with me. You know who you are!
Special shot out also to FIVE TEN Slovenija for hooking me up with best shoes!

Here is uncut video of the ascent.

OVER AND OUT

Friday, December 11, 2015

Utah bouldering video

First video in the series!
Featuring Katja Vidmar on one Indian Creek highball and some Joe's Valley classics. Enjoy!

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Utah

Back from road trip around Utah. Joe's Valley, Moab, Castle Valley, Indian Creek... miles and miles of awesome sandstone and amazing scenery plus some Little Cottonwood Canyon granite thrown in the mix. Here is just a quick gallery (pictures are not in chronological order). More pictures and videos will follow in next weeks. Better watch this space!
Many thanks to Five Ten Slovenija for the stickiest shoes on planet and Moon Climbing for safe landings!
 Skidmark, 
tried this on our last day in Joe's, got very close but on the end didn't stick move on sloper from the start
 Playtime is Over V9, 
awesome overlooked technical compression high on top of New Joe's
 Poseidon
 Magnificent desert towers of Castle Valley
 A Simple Twist of Fate 
hard hard hard 
 rest day must do! Angler V2
 awesome S-Sahped roof I found in Indian Creek
Wolf Child V8, (probably) First Ascent
 The Split Bloc V6, Indian Creek
 quick morning session in Little Cottonwood Canyon on the way to the airport,
Bear Hug V8
 No Substance V9, Joe's Valley
 classic Joe's roadside action, 
Worst Case Scenario V9
 exploring endless potential in Castle Valley
 my favourite boulder I climbed on this trip, Black Angus V7
 Black Angus immaculate bomb proof sandstone! 
 Bigger Belly Stand Start, 
Big Bend classic, get close but couldn't finished on the end... a good reason to get back!!
on the way to the Joe's Valley