Monday, April 25, 2016

The Maze

Been pretty busy lately with developing ''The Maze'' as we dubbed it. Many thanks to Jure Piršič who came out with me and help me put bolts on top so we can cleaned it, Borut Šlenc for giving extra hand when we build landing zones and of course Nejc Peljhan who borrowed us his bolting machine! 
Some sick sick projects are waiting to be done. Stay tuned! 
After rain we are back in the MAZE!!
Amazing Karma Project, on some radical river polished limestone
Jure Piršič on one of the best lines in The Maze, Amazement
Tomzi pressing his way up the infamous Maze Steam

Wednesday, April 13, 2016

Lie, Cheat, Steal...

Is climbing becoming a fucking joke lately?
Lie, Cheat, Steal for the win...

Monday, April 11, 2016

Trnow Fresh

Back to Trnow Land yesterday. Great session all along the river and also new cool bloc under the lower bridge. After quick cleaning I put up two lines. One goes straight in the middle and little spicy arête which goes from the left. 

On a side note
Please respect local rules and don't drive down unpaved road any more if you want to go to Forest Sector! That road is private as sign in the village indicates. Please use designated middle parking (follow signs for kayaks) and walk down the river. It's only 10 minutes walk and a great warm up.

 Prefect Plex
 Perfect Plex Arête
 Katja on Perfect Plex
1 Perfect Plex Arête 6A
2 Prefect Plex 5

Saturday, April 9, 2016

My Favourite 5.10 Trio

Climbing shoes is something that besides hands connects us to the rock surface. And as important as all finger and arm strength is also what you have on your feet. Five Ten has for thirty years supplied us with best shoes with best rubber on the world. So here is my favourite Five Ten trio. 
Read bellow why I like certain model and then go and try them. I guarantee you that you wont be disappointed. They changed my life as a climber when I back in 1998 bought my first pair of legendary Anasazi Velcro!
 Teams, Aescents and Hiangles

1 Hiangle
My shoe to go. Jack of all trades. If I have to choose just one shoe for road trip it would be Hiangle. Versatile all-arounder. From tiny edges to overhang pulling this one can do all. My favourite piece of gear.

2 Team 5.10
Heel and toe hooking monster. Especially excels in overhangs where allows you to pull with your feet like a third hand. Soft, precise and sensitive. When you need that 1% extra.

3 Aescent
Amazing approach shoe, From going out in the city, skateboarding or scrambling around this one is a killer. Climbed up to 7A in this ones. A must to have in your collection!

To read more and see other models please visit Five Ten page (CLICK HERE)!

Sunday, April 3, 2016

Run the Invaders

Yesterday I climbed new version of Alien Invaders on Pingu Bloc in Trnow Styler. First I thought that I just found better method for Alien, but when I came home and watched video of first ascent I come to conclusion that is more of a new problem then just a better beta. I started half meter to the left then where OG Alien starts and climbed straight out to the left, where Alien keeps super low and top out one meter more to the left. So even if I usually don't like claims of first ascents for every new version of a boulder, I think that this is so much different problem that it deserves a new name.
Run The Invaders, 7C-ish*, first ascent 02.04.2016

*grade disclaimer
I don't know how hard or easy this thing actually is. Personally I thought around 7B? But then Brecelj persuaded me that I'm ''strong'' at the moment and that it should be something like Pingu Dreams. So 7C it is. So now you know who to blame when you gonna call downgrade