Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Vitovlje Fresh

Who said that Vitovlje are taped out?
Check video bellow (produced by Marko Bratina) for my two new first ascents, Green Mirror 6A-X and Skinny Ninja 7Bish

Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Kovk Fresh!

Walked past this roof many times, always thinking that the rock is too chossy and not worth trouble to clean it up. On Saturday I was passing it once again on the end of the day and decided to check it out more closely. Figured out that rock is not chossy at all, little sharp and crumbly on some parts yes, but all in all definitely worth to try. So I quick brushed all the potential holds and give it a few tries. Too tired to link it together I decided to stop and come back next day. Sunday was as cold as Saturday, but weather was sunny and crisp, when I hiked forty minutes up the steep hill with 3 crashpads and all the gear. Once at the roof, I cleaned top out and work it on the moves some more, then I set up a camera and give it a try from the beginning. After few messy tries, I re-worked intro sequence, then rested for a while and dispatched it first go. Decide to name it ''Hueco Simulator'' 7B, coz it reminiscent a little of great Hueco roofs, with it's shape and how it actually climbs. Man has to dream sometimes right?
Check quick Instagram video bellow and stay tuned for bigger video


Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Best of 2016

Although a bit late and technically already in 2017, but better late then never, my traditional best blocs of 2016! Happy new year to all of you!  

This, or better said last year, I spent mainly on the hunt for new blocs and with two visits to my beloved forest of Fontainebleau. Scroll down and check my best of 2016 from 10 to 1:

10. Beast of no Nation 7A F.A., Beast Land SLO
First and only bloc in this brand new zone. 
Can't wait to return up there this year and climb some more blocs which I spoted on my first visit

9. Kowkberg 7A F.A., Kovk SLO
one of the best blocs for this grade in Vipava Valley and another new zone I found last year

8. Molonk 7C, Brione CH
Probably only ''low'' bloc on this list. Year 2016 was somehow mainly about high blocs, but amazing and unique rock on this boulder was more then enough to secure Molonk spot on this list. Also it was my first visit to beautiful Brione and for sure not the last!

7. Four star arete 6C, Zadnja Trenta SLO
When Uroš Krapež told me about this one I drove up to Zadnja Trenta right next day. First I thought that it was first ascent, but apparently it was been done before. Non the less, it is amazing boulder in beautiful mountain setting.

6. Compressor wit no pressure 7B F.A., Eldorado Zone SLO
Sixteen powerful moves on big holds. Crew favourite! 

5. Emeralds 6C F.A., Trnow Styler Land SLO
What to say! Crazy that it's not been done before! 
Amazing setting right next to Soča river

4. Pirouette Cacaouette 7C, Fontainebleau FR
Tall, independent bloc, with amazing quality of sandstone and far away from crowds

3. Rababoum 7A, Fontainebleau FR
Perfection! 

2. Hotline 7C, Fontainebleau FR
It is in the Name! Striking line!

1. Cortez the Killer 7B F.A., Eldorado Zone SLO
It was hard to chose which one should go to first place. But in the end what turned weight on side of Cortez was the whole story with this bloc. From first recon mission when I first saw the line, to cleaning, trying and finally climbing problem, this was for me most memorable experience in 2016. I guess it's hard to beat excitement when you enter into new, untouched zone and find line like this.